Frequently Asked Questions
- Wood-burning Fireplaces
1. Can I install a woodstove
into my existing masonry fireplace?
Yes. An existing fireplace and chimney
is a convenient site for a new stove. To make this
installation easier, some woodstoves have a reversible
flue collar, so the stovepipe can extend straight
out the back. Also, certain stove models have optional
short legs to enable the stove to fit into the fireplace.
2. How close can I install a
woodstove to a combustible wall?
All combustible surfaces must be
protected from excess heat. Most stoves have clearances
of 33 - 24 inches from a combustible wall. However,
with the use of optional heat shields or wall shields,
those clearances can be reduced to 13 - 28 inches
depending on the specific model. Clearance reducing
heat shields are also available for chimney connectors.
3. Cast iron stoves are fairly
heavy. Do I need additional support under my floor
to install a wood stove?
In most cases, no, you won't need
extra foundations support beyond what's already in
a standard home. For this reason, freestanding wood
stoves can go almost anywhere in a home.
4. Do I need protection for the
floor underneath and around the stove?
Yes. Floor protection is required
for any wood stove. You have several choices that
are both effective in protecting combustibles - and
very decorative. Stone, brick or tile are a few of
the most popular choices. However, review you Owner's
Guide regarding hearth dimension requirements for
each stove model. Also, remember that any combustibles
beneath the decorative hearth material must be protected
from the heat as well; in many cases, a bottom heat
shield may be required.
5. What type of chimney do I
need for a wood stove?
A good chimney is an essential part
of your stove installation - for both safety and performance.
It should not be overlooked, since most performance
problems with wood appliances are caused by deficiencies
with the chimney system rather than with the appliance
itself. There are two types of chimneys for wood burning:
metal factory-built and masonry.
A metal, or Class A chimney system
is rated to withstand temperatures up to 2100 degrees
F. These chimneys are economical and easily installed
by professionals. Masonry chimneys, with tile liners,
are equally effective, and provide a more traditional
appearance. A masonry chimney with tile liner will
generally cost more than a metal Class A chimney.
6. What's the best wood to burn
in a wood burning stove?
Dry, seasoned wood is best. The
type of tree is not as important as moisture content.
Even the most dense wood must be allowed to dry for
a minimum of 12 months after being split and stacked.
Popular firewood in the Northwest are: maple, alder,
Douglas fir and fruitwood, such as apple and cherry.
Another good fuel source is pressed, fire logs, manufactured
by pressurizing sawdust, as opposed to wax-based decorative
logs, which have limited heating value.
7. How can I reduce creosote
buildup?
First make sure your chimney is
properly sized for both flue area and termination
height. Try to avoid offset angles and keep the chimney
as straight as possible. Try to size your woodstove
correctly for the area you want to heat. This will
ensure that you are able to burn it hot (efficiently)
and avoid creosote build-up. Always warm up your chimney
by burning vigorously for the first 45 - 60 minutes
before you reduce the air supply and burn slowly.
8. Do you sell pellet stoves?
No. We have focused our expertise
on the sale, installation and service of wood burning
and gas burning appliances. Pellet stoves are quite
different from natural draft wood and gas appliances.
They require electricity to feed the pellets into
the combustion chamber, circulate the hot air and
force or induce the draft in the chimney. This means
they do not work without electrical power.
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